2005 Aubert Chardonnay Quarry Vineyard

The 2005 Chardonnay Quarry Vineyard is an amazing wine, with wonderful acidity and beautiful notes of lemon oil, orange rind, and crushed rocks, which is not surprising given the name of this vineyard owned by Peter Michael, who canceled the contract with Mark Aubert for 2006. The wine is full-bodied, stunningly rich, pure, and expansively textured, while all the while remaining light on its feet. It should drink well for 5-7 years. Mark Aubert is on the move, leaving Colgin Winery in favor of working for the Bryant Family Vineyard, while at the same time producing some of the world’s greatest Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. He seems to have a plate filled with both potential and stress. The bad news is that one of his suppliers decided his Chardonnays were just too profound for the Quarry Vineyard, and will no longer sell him fruit from that source, and in 2006, there was so little Reuling available, that cuvee was not made either. In short, there are two fewer Chardonnays for the 2006 vintage! Nevertheless, those who got on the mailing list and secured some of his 2005 Chardonnays have some of the finest Chardonnays ever made in California at their beck and call. Of course, these are made from old Wente clones of Chardonnay, given full malolactic, aged on their lees, and bottled with no clarification. Tel. (707) 942-5611; Fax (707) 942-1573