1999 Château l'Évangile

The 1999 L’Evangile is a vintage that winemaker Jean-Pascal Vazart opined was made to be drunk – no vin de garde . At 20 years of age, the bouquet is certainly mature, with truffle and morels infusing the red and black fruit, and becoming quite tarry with aeration. The balanced but simple palate is medium-bodied with quite rustic tannin, fleshy in style, supple but missing the density and complexity of the finest vintages that Vazart has overseen in recent years. 13.2% alcohol. Tasted from an ex- château bottle at the estate.

Looks quite evolved. Rich and sweet and powerful. A definitely dusty overlay with some slightly rustic tannins but real integrity. This does taste like old-fashioned Pomerol! Notably less fruit-forward than modern wines. Long. Pretty impressive, though specifically for classicists. (JR)

The dark purple-colored 1999 L'Evangile is a blend of 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc. It reveals an unexpected touch of herbaceousness, which cost it a point or two in the ultimate rating. Nevertheless, the striking, evolved, hedonistic perfume of melted licorice intermixed with black raspberries, minerals, and truffles is an intellectual turn-on. This is a beautiful, medium to full-bodied L'Evangile with a sweet attack and mid-palate. It may merit a higher score, depending on its evolution. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2015.