1989 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello
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The 1989 offering from the Bussia Soprano sub-vineyard of Vigna Colonnello is a sensational bottle of wine. It is velvety-textured, opulent, and voluptuous. In addition to its spectacular concentration, there is a huge, sweet, leathery, black fruit-scented nose, as well as layers of chewy, fleshy fruit that nearly conceal considerable tannin. The alcohol is in the mid 14% range. Although seductive at present, this spectacularly rich, voluptuous Barolo should age effortlessly for 25-30 years. Every Italian wine authority, from the late Sheldon Wasserman, to Burton Anderson, to Victor Hazan, to Roberto Parkero, considers Aldo Conterno to be one of the great masters of his craft. The staggering display of wines he produced in 1989 and 1990 confirmed that no one in Piedmont is making greater Barolo than Aldo Conterno and his sons. If you love great wine, these are must purchases; if you love Barolo, a pilgrimage to your favorite Italian wine shop is in order! It is virtually impossible to pick a favorite among Conterno's 1989s and 1990s. However, the 1990s, which are not yet bottled, appear even more massive, structured, and tannic than the flamboyant, super-concentrated, flashy 1989s. Readers should keep in mind that the Barolo-Riserva Gran Bussia is released a year later than the other Barolos, so the 1989 will not appear in the marketplace until spring, 1995, and the 1990 a year later. Wine enthusiasts throughout the world should be beating a path to their retailers to buy the 1989s and to reserve the 1990s when they arrive next year. By the way, Aldo Conterno is one of Piedmont's sweetest people, proving that sometimes nice guys do finish first! Importer: Vias Imports, Great Neck, NY.
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Robert Parker
Robert Parker
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Of Aldo Conterno's 1989 Barolos, the Vigna Cicala is the one to drink first. Although the 1989 Barolo-Vigna Colonello is deeply colored, tannic, and backward, it displays tremendous potential for future evolution. The wine has an herb and tobacco character, huge body and extract, and considerable glycerin, tannin, and alcohol in the finish. It will not be at its best until the late nineties, but it should evolve gracefully through the first two decades of the next century. As a longtime fan of Aldo Conterno's Barolos, I must admit these are potentially the best he has yet made. No well-funded Nebbiolo lover will be able to resist them. Importers: Vias Imports, Great Neck, NY and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA.
Of Aldo Conterno's 1989 Barolos, the Vigna Cicala is the one to drink first. Although the 1989 Barolo-Vigna Colonello is deeply colored, tannic, and backward, it displays tremendous potential for future evolution. The wine has an herb and tobacco character, huge body and extract, and considerable glycerin, tannin, and alcohol in the finish. It will not be at its best until the late nineties, but it should evolve gracefully through the first two decades of the next century. ||As a longtime fan of Aldo Conterno's Barolos, I must admit these are potentially the best he has yet made. No well-funded Nebbiolo lover will be able to resist them. Wine Advocate.April, 1993