2003 Domaine René Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne

NB older vintage. Looks quite youthfully blue. Rostaing detests this vintage, he says several times! Rich and bloody and not very readable. All heat and density. Some rhubarb stewed-fruit aroma. Fossilised. It doesn't seem that old, but there isn't that much evolution either. (JR)

Revealing more structure and definition than the regular bottling, the 2003 Cote Rotie La Landonne offers more scorched earth, camphor, blackberry, and roasted meat characteristics. Last year this cuvee displayed no acidity, but that is not the case from bottle (perhaps the use of 50% stems helped). Rostaing admits that analytically, there is practically no acid in this wine, so it will age on its extraordinary extract and richness. This blockbuster should drink well young, yet age for 12-15 years. Importer: Manny Berk, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

Inky ruby color. Powerful scents of cherry liqueur, blackberry and grilled meat, with a strong violet element adding lift. Big but juicy in the mouth, with great ripeness and impressive depth of flavor. Shows a range of jammy berry flavors accented by pungent florality. "Can the material compensate for the low acidity?" wonders Rostaing, noting that the actual acidity here is barely two grams per liter. I'd bet on it.