2009 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Sarmassa

(bottled in magnums): Good medium-deep red. Deeply pitched aromas of plum, mocha and truffley underbrush; roasted in a positive way. At once thick and lively in the mouth, boasting lush, sweet flavors of redcurrant, cherry and plum complicated by porcini and earth and complemented by mellow oak tones. Finishes very long, with huge, broad, well-buffered tannins. This classic Barolo is delicious already.

The 2009 Barolo Sarmassa di Barolo (tasted in a magnum) shows delicate embroidery of shaved mineral, dried cherry fruit, ash, tar, licorice, ginger and light teriyaki. End notes of toasted hazelnut are reminiscent of the perfumes that waft over Alba’s Ferrero chocolate factory. Silky firmness and structure mean this wine will have no problem facing the years. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2030. The wines of Roberto and Davide Voerzio offer a fitting conclusion to this tasting of Piedmont’s best red wines. These are stunning wines that capture, head on, the beauty of the 2009 vintage. They remind us of the dazzling heights achieved by the Nebbiolo grape. Importer: Winebow, Pinebrook, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2009 Barolo Sarmassa is all about pure sensuality. Freshly cut roses, sweet cherries, raspberries, mint and subtle spices are woven together in a finely knit fabric of the utmost elegance. Like the Cerequio, a wine it shares so many qualities with, the Sarmassa is quite rich and voluptuous in this vintage, but all the elements are very much in the right place. Elegance and power are rarely this well balanced. (Magnum)