1998 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate/Le Coste

The 1998 Barolo Brunate-Le Coste from Giuseppe Rinaldi, also from magnum, looks like a fake, as Rinaldi sold me a few magnums years ago, but insisted that I put on the labels myself, which I did, and with little skill. No matter, the wine is big, rich, intense and everything one could ask for.

A stone's throw from the Cantina Mascarello is the other temple of traditional winemaking in Barolo, the cellars of Beppe Rinaldi. Rinaldi's 1998 Barolo Brunate/Le Coste is a throwback. A big, massive wine, this Barolo bursts with dark fruit in an energetic, vibrant style. There are elements of volatile acidity that might throw off some tasters, but readers who can look past those imperfections will find much to admire here. Certainly quality and consistency has improved markedly at this property since the 1998 was made.

Extremely high acidity as well as astringent tannin make this a difficult effort to evaluate. The color is a dark plum with amber at the edge. The closed nose reveals hints of tar, rose petal, cherries, and tobacco. The attack is elegant, but the high acidity and tannin combine to compress the mid-palate and finish. There may be more behind the acidity and tannin than I was able to determine, but this closed 1998 needs 4-5 years of cellaring to display its full potential. An austere style for sure, I am not sure the fruit will ever be able to overcome the wine's structural components. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (516) 467-5907