2004 Cerbaiona Brunello di Montalcino
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Tasting notes
One of the unquestioned stars of the vintage, Cerbaiona's 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is every bit as impressive as it has always been. An intense dark red to the core, the 2004 boasts remarkable depth, power and richness. Today, the 2004 remains incredibly young and almost primary in its flavors. The 2004 captures all of the potential I sensed when it was a young wine. If anything, I may have underestimated it! Readers lucky enough to own the 2004 are in for a real treat, as it is an epic bottle.
Critic scores
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Robert Parker
More reviews and scores
Bright, saturated dark red. High-pitched, perfumed aromas of crushed raspberry, pungent minerality and rose petal. Silky, suave and refined, with lovely clarity and class to the pure flavors of crushed red berries and flowers. Not as big as the 2001, and more dominated in the early going by treble notes, but this is wonderfully sappy and insinuating wine with a superb rising finish. Its almost liqueur-like red cherry flavor is joined by deeper notes of leather and earth-plus a suggestion of exotic flowers-after extended aeration. A beauty, and now routinely one of the best Brunellos of each new vintage.
The estate's 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is simply extraordinary. Enticing layers of mint, violets, black cherries, menthol and minerals lead to an explosive core of fruit. The wine continues to grow in the glass, showing off its first-class pedigree. Amazingly pure, textured and rich, this vivid, chiseled Brunello dazzles from start to finish, where balsamic notes make a final appearance. If forced to drink only one wine from Montalcino, I might very well choose Diego Molinari's sumptuous Brunello. This is an incredible wine!
Cerbaiona’s 2004 Brunello di Montalcino was poured during my visit by Matthew Fioretti to underline how far the estate has progressed since he assumed leadership in 2015. Under the previous ownership of the celebrated Diego Molinari, winemaking spaces were cramped, Brettanomyces could be an issue and, most critically, many back vintages were stored in an unconditioned chapel exposed to the setting sun, leaving numerous bottles compromised. This example shows flat, tired aromas with faded fruit and oxidative notes, failing to reflect the inherent quality of the excellent 2004 vintage. Awarded 97 points upon release, this bottle has unfortunately not held up as expected.
About the producer
A cult address for many Italian fine wine lovers, Cerbaiona is one of Montalcino’s top estates. The site has long been identified as special, but it was Diego Molinari who established its reputation. Today, Matthew Fioretti is at the helm, bringing the estate into the modern era.