2002 Les Pagodes de Cos

Behind the scenes, the work on selecting specific plots for Les Pagodes de Cos had been underway since 2000, and you get a little more intensity in this wine than the 1994, with a rich plum colour that is softening sightly around the edges, with truffle and smoked earth aromatics that suggest its 23 years of age is beginning to be felt. The tannic frame still has shoulders, there is autumnal berry fruit here if not quite the finessed elegance of the 1994, with waves of oyster shell salinity and fresh mint. A delicious drinking wine, spice, fine tannins, fully in its drinking window. 33hl/h yields after green work in the vineyards to concentrate the fruit, helped by a sunny late season after a challenging year, allowing a late harvest from September 30 to October 12. Dominique Arangoïts promoted to technical director, helping to apply the lessons learnt from soil studies undertaken since arrival of Michel Reybier in 2000.

Cos d'Estournel's second wine. Low-level TCA? Suppressed fruit – very dry on the end. (JR)

A less expensive sibling than its more formidable stable mate, this wine shows a deep ruby/purple color with a sweet nose of smoked herbs, black fruits, and meat in a fleshy, medium-bodied, spicy style meant for drinking over the next 10-12 years.