2016 Domaine Roger Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Reserve

The same blend as the Les Olivets (80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, and 10% Mourvèdre), the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve is similarly inky ruby/purple-colored and gives up a more dense, serious, backward style in its blackberry, melted licorice, roasted herb, and graphite aromas and flavors. With terrific minerality, full body, sweet tannin, and beautiful purity, it's a seriously good 2016 that's going to benefit from 2-3 years of bottle age and drink nicely for 10-15. I continue to love the wines from Didier Negron at Roger Sabon, yet I always feel they’re underappreciated in the market. While they can certainly be big, rich wines (especially the Secret des Sabon), these are always classic, elegant wines that have beautiful Provençal charm. There are four Châteauneuf-du-Pape releases: the entry level Les Olivets (first made in 1955) from younger vines and completely destemmed; the Cuvée Reserve from a single vineyard and 70-80% Grenache, and the rest Syrah and Mourvèdre, aged in foudre and oak tanks; the Cuvée Prestige based on 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and the rest mostly Mourvèdre that’s aged in foudre, oak tanks, and demi-muids; and the smallest production cuvée (there’s normally just 100 cases produced), the Le Secret des Sabon based mostly on Grenache. The estate has made beautiful wines in both 2016 and 2017.

Full-bodied and velvety, Sabon's 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve is a step up from the les Olivets bottling and probably represents the best value in the 2016 lineup. Tasted blind, it showcases ripe dark plum and cola but also super ripe Grenache notes of apricot and delicate hints of garrigue, then it turns rich and chewy on the long finish. It's 80% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre and 10% Syrah, matured in a mix of foudres and oak vats.

Deep ruby. Highly expressive aromas of candied raspberry, boysenberry, licorice pastille and lavender pick up a smoky quality as the wine opens up. Juicy and energetic on the palate, offering concentrated red and blue fruit flavors complemented by an exotic vanilla flourish. Gains flesh on the clinging finish while maintaining energy; subtle tannins lend framework and grip.