2022 Vietti Derthona Timorasso
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The Vietti 2022 Colli Tortonesi Timorasso Derthona Boscogrosso represents a special selection of fruit from a hillside slope with southwest exposures on sandy soils. This is a generous expression of this promising grape, which has extra textural heft and layering in a hot vintage such as this. It shows a pretty sense of inner balance that could not have been easy to achieve. I tasted this wine months before its commercial release, and it had already started to flesh out. However, this is a white wine that you can easily set aside for another five years of bottle aging.
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Jeb Dunnuck
Monica Larner, Wine Advocate
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A pale silver/straw color, the 2022 Derthona Timorasso Boscogrosso comes from the top of the hill, where there’s more sand, with natural lower production. The nose of this vintage is a bit more reserved and Chablis-like in style, with aromas of fresh pear, wet stones, chives, and fresh white flowers. The palate is compelling and elegant, with a snappy freshness and ripe notes of white peach through the mid-palate and finish. Drink 2025-2035.
Timorasso is an extremely sensitive variety, so it's easy to understand why it was nearly abandoned. It is rich in proteins and tends to go into reduction. Luckily, it has been enthusiastically revived in recent years, and we have a new school of age-worthy white wines from Piedmont to enjoy. The Vietti 2022 Colli Tortonesi Timorasso Derthona works nicely because it has the sweetness of the vintage that opens it up to a medium-term drinking window, sparing you from having to wait years. Its flavors are generous and rich, with apricot and poached apple, and you get a salty mineral note as well. The wine is quite fresh with 3.05 to 3.10 pH that makes your mouth salivate. Winemaking takes it through stainless steel, wood and cement. Cement has a minimal 2% oxygen exchange compared to oak, which has a 10% exchange, and certain types of amphorae can go up to 100% air transpiration because of their porous nature. Production is 18,000 bottles. In addition to this wine, I tasted the upcoming Colli Tortonesi Timorasso Derthona Boscogrosso, which represents a special selection of fruit. The Boscogrosso will be released in late spring 2025, so I will include my review of that wine in my next Piedmont report.