2013 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru from de Vogüé did not show as well as I was expecting. On this occasion it was showing too much oak on the nose that was masking terroir expression -- at least at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with supple and rounded black fruit, well integrated new oak, quite plush in style with more blue fruit emerging towards the finish. It just lacks a little personality, perhaps exposed by its juxtaposition against other Bonnes-Mares. Closing down maybe? Tasted September 2016.

Bright, dark red-ruby. Knockout nose combines black fruits, minerals, dark chocolate, clove and menthol. Dense, sappy and intense, boasting outstanding energy and lift to its almost painful flavors of blackberry and black cherry. There's a sweetness here but the wine is very closed today, finishing with a powerful tannic spine and superb vinosity (in a somber style, almost a bit frightening, says winemaker Millet).

Deep ruby color. This is more deeply pitched still and even more reserved though aggressive swirling liberates a wonderfully complex array of plum and black raspberry liqueur-like aromas where added breadth is present in the form of spice, earth, pepper, dried flowers and a hint of underbrush. The dense, powerful and broad-shouldered flavors brim with dry extract that imparts a velvety mouth feel to the vibrant finale as well as pushes the very firm core of tannins to the background. This is a big but beautifully well-balanced wine that should amply reward up to 20 years of cellaring.