2006 Dominus Napanook Vineyard

Deep red-ruby. Raspberry, mocha, tobacco, brown spices, menthol and herbs on the lively and inviting nose. Supple on entry, then a tad disjointed in the middle, with flavors of red fruits, smoke, flowers and earth along with some slightly edgy acidity. Finishes with dusty tannins and a light peppery element. This calls for two or three years of patience.

The 2006 Napanook (a 3,500-case blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest small amounts of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot) is made in a riper, more California style than usual, displaying more exuberant, up-front notes of kirsch, black currants, and plums. Deep and full-bodied with low acidity, sweet tannin, and a fleshy, succulent personality, it tastes like a classic Napa Cabernet. Consume it over the next 10-15 years. Christian Moueix, Dominus’ owner, has purchased the 35-acre Swanson Vineyard, which is situated between the well-known California bistros, Brix and Mustard’s. I suspect that will result in a third label from Dominus. At present, the production from these large holdings in Yountville is approximately 10,000-12,000 cases, with the second wine, Napanook, representing 3,500-4,000 cases, depending on the vintage. It is ironic that Christian Moueix, the great Merlot specialist at his flagship chateaux in Pomerol, especially Petrus, prefers the other Bordeaux varietals at his Napa property. Interestingly, when I visit Dominus, they always open a fresh bottle and serve it alongside a bottle that has been decanted for 24 hours. On each occasion, the more complex, open wine is the one that has had 24 hours of aeration, something buyers of this wine should take into consideration. These are the two strongest back to back vintages for Dominus since 1990-1991 and 2001-2002. Tel. (707) 944-8954; Fax (707) 944-0547

Bright red-ruby. Lively aromas of cherry, menthol and tobacco. Sweet and fruit-driven, with primary, juicy, slightly cool flavors of raspberry and menthol. Finishes fresh, with a firm tannic spine. Quite promising.