2006 Fernando Remirez de Ganuza Reserva (Old Vines Unfiltered)

Tempranillo, Graciano, pomace from Viura and Malvasía. Flagship winery created in 1989. Located in Rioja Alavesa with old vines (1940-1970) at 500-600 m. Low yields. Cold maceration, remarkable selection at the sorting table. Aged in new French and American oak. Star producer Fernando Remirez de Ganuza points out, ‘Remirez is a contemporary wine, it combines an elegant character with a full palate, very Alavesa in style’. Rioja integrated style. Remirez shone particularly well in the blind tasting. The vintage 2002 was described by Jancis as clever, without trying to be something bigger or bolder. The 2006 continues in this vein with a great expression on the nose, toasty, coffee, cedar and mature. Very stimulating acidity for an eight-year-old wine. Very fine grained and savoury palate, expressive and long. (FC)

The 2006 Finca de Ganuza Reserva is a blend of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano aged in new oak (80% French and 20% American) for 25 months. It has a very pure floral bouquet with pure blackberry, boysenberry and crushed rose petals with fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, indeed, this is quite a serious Rioja wine with a broody, black olive and licorice-tinged finish dominated by the oak. I would give this behemoth another couple of years in bottle. Drink 2014-2019. Fernando Remirez de Ganuza needs no introduction. In some ways, he reminds me of Gerard Perse of Chateau Pavie in terms of his determination, unwillingness to compromise and singular vision. Looks-wise, they could be brothers. Fernando has already won acclaim for his wines that are created in his state-of-the-art facility in the village of Samaniego. The picturesque medieval buildings that surround a small manicured garden and a natural spring belie a winery where no expense is spared. Fernando has an almost obsessive intolerance towards cleanliness and hygiene. All that was missing was a doormat to clean your shoes as you enter the vat-room. He famously uses just the “shoulder” part of grape bunches for his top wines, since he believes they have more intensity than the bottom. These wines are crafted in a modern fashion and you can taste the effort that has gone into them. Yet at the same time, there is part of me that would like Fernando to take risks and be wary of not over-analyzing the wines, which can detract from their personality and risk making them over-polished and generic. Perfectionism is an admirable virtue to aspire to, but imperfections can make something more interesting to experience. The Vina Coqueta comes from 41-year-old vines is 5.5-hectare namesake vineyard, a blend of 90% Tempranillo, 8% Graciano and 2% Garnacha that is blended with the skins of the white grapes, then raised for two years in barrel (90% French and 10% American). The Reserva is a blend of 85% Tempranillo, 5% the skins of Viura and Malvasia that are added during fermentation and 10% of Graciano, no younger than 40-years in age. It is raised in 95% French and 5% American oak for approximately 25 months. The Trasnocho is made from the same fruit as the Reserva, but is pressed gently through a water-filled bag inserted into the vat and left to inflate overnight. It is then raised entirely in French new oak. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767