2012 Jean Foillard Morgon Côte du Py

The 2012 Morgon Cote du Py has an immediately seductive and engaging bouquet with fine definition: light wild strawberry and red currant scents that are nicely focused. The palate is nicely balanced with supple tannins, nicely judged acidity and, as Jean himself describes it, an “honesty” that will give pleasure over the next 5 to 6 years. This is very fine. Drink now-2020. The tasting finished with two vintages of the Cuvee 3’14.” Though it is seen as Foillard’s most prestigious cru, I interpret it more as a different take on Morgon and not implicitly superior compared to the Cote du Py. Jean Foillard told me that he only releases it when he can see a tangible difference between these vines and the rest of his parcel. Unfortunately, Monsieur Foillard and I had one of those proverbial “miscommunications” with regard to the time of our appointment, ergo a slightly dishevelled and bare chested Monsieur Foillard was found opening the upstairs shutters of his maison in Villie-Morgon and calling down to me apologetically, promising to be dressed and downstairs tout de suite. A quick comb and a shirt later, and he was escorting me through what I consider one of the best Beaujolais producers. I have been a long-time fan of Foillard’s wines, and it has nothing to do about this being one of the so-called “Gang of Four,” as Kermit Lynch coined his quartet of leading natural wine producers. No, it simply stems from my appreciation of the complexity and unfettered deliciousness of these wines. I was first attracted at my local wine retailer, which happened to be their UK importer, Les Caves de Pyrene. The odd-looking, eye-catching label of the Cuvee 3’14” piqued my interest, though admittedly I misinterpreted it as an homage to Stonehenge instead of the symbol for pi. (I have always tended to think laterally, not literally). Since 1980, together with his wife Agnes, they have farmed their 14-hectare estate inspired by the ideals of Jules Chauvet, eschewing the use of herbicides, chemicals and applying minimal sulfur additions. What I like is the substance to these wines, perhaps more so than Marcel/Mathieu Lapierre’s own take on Morgon. These are wines with presence and weight, matiere, packed to the rafters with fistfuls of fruit without excessive or obvious effort. How much can be attributed to their natural winemaking technique? It is a moot point so long as the wine delivers. And to disabuse the notion of such wines being incapable of aging, Jean kindly offered a mini-vertical of his cuvees that demonstrated how these wines repay cellaring, hitting a sweet spot from four to around eight years of age. Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524 and also available through Les Caves de Pyrene in UK.

Complex nose, red fruit and a touch meaty (smells like brett) and just a hint of stems. Juicy on the palate but there is definitely a taste of brett which can only get stronger, hence the minus. It is not too intrusive now, if you don't mind a bit of that character, but I certainly wouldn't buy this wine to cellar. Fine, compact structure and lovely frreshness nevertheless. (JH)