2009 Mas Martinet Cami Pesseroles

The 2009 Cami Pesseroles is named after a route taken by travelers (the same origin as “Pezerolles” in Burgundy.) It is a blend of 60% Carinena and 40% Garnacha, the vines mostly planted in the 1920, and formerly belonging to a co-operative. The llicorella is not hard here, abraded by the elements into small fragments, and the wine is aged in large foudres plus a dash of new oak from small 300-litre barriques (Darnajou). It has an outstanding bouquet of lifted, fresh ripe blackberry, liquorice, allspice and thyme with wonderful delineation. The palate is medium-bodied, controlling the heat of the growing season with aplomb, while retaining outstanding balance and sense of femininity. The tension here is exceptional thanks to the pH of 3.2 (a figure much lower than ten years ag,o when they were not working under organic viticulture). There is a gentle build towards the liquorice-tinged, succulent finish that finally delivers white pepper on the long aftertaste. Drink 2015-2028+. When making a maiden visit to a wine region and knocking on the door of properties, there will always been one that stands out from the rest. There will be one where the wine enraptures and stimulates the senses unlike any other and offers food for thought long after you have departed with renewed spring in your step. On this occasion, it was Mas Martinet. My senses were almost overwhelmed by the thrilling wines and winemaker Sara Perez’s passionate explanation of her philosophies, which challenge the status quo in Priorat. Now here’s a winemaker thinking outside the box. Her father, Jose Luis Perez, one of the pioneers of Priorat, stood by her side in silence, not wishing to interrupt his daughter’s flow. I wonder whether he envisaged the heights that Mas Martinet would achieve all those years ago? I asked whether Sara’s approach differs from her husband, Rene Barbier of Clos Mogador fame (she pointed out, the younger Rene of the family!) Sara replied that there is a divergence in opinion of when to pick, Rene “Senior” preferring the latest date, Sara the earliest and her husband somewhere in the middle. Who is right? Well, why should there be a single interpretation? Then again, I thought the wines of Mas Martinet demonstrated their terroir with more clarity than any other Priorat winery in 2009 and 2010. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800