2008 Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino

Sweet, rich, lush and layered, yet also remarkably light on its feet, the 2008 Brunello di Montalcino dazzles from start to finish. Sweet roses, red berries, flowers, mint and orange peel all take an appearance in this utterly impeccable polished Brunello. I imagine the 2008 will still be a special wine at age 30. The aromas are naturally still quite primary, so some cellaring is advisable. The brutal August hailstorm took with it a full 40% of the production, but left behind a strikingly beautiful Brunello endowed with seemingly endless layers of fruit and fabulous overall balance. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2038. When all is said and done, Col d'Orcia might have produced not just one of the wines of the 2008 vintage, but possibly two. Proprietor Francesco Marone Cinzano and his team, led by long-time estate manager Edoardo Virano, have done a magnificent job with these wines, the Brunellos in particular. Like many estates in this part of the region, Col d'Orcia was hammered by the August 15 hailstorm. Yields were down by a whopping 40%. What the estate lost in production is compensated with the superb quality of the wines. During my visit, I also tasted a vertical of the estate-s Moscadello, a first for me. In the best vintages, the Moscadello can age two decades, although whether or not the wine improves with bottle age is a matter of personal preference. Mine is to drink the wine either upon release or after it is 20 years old. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

Deep ruby with orange-tinged rim. Stalky and rhubarb-like on the nose. Mellow on the palate and yet a little herbal. Fruit spiked with acidity and rustic tannins. Succulent on the finish, though. Drink now. (WS)

Sweet, rich, lush and layered, yet also remarkably light on its feet, the 2008 Brunello di Montalcino dazzles from start to finish. Sweet roses, red berries, flowers, mint and orange peel all take an appearance in this utterly impeccable polished Brunello. I imagine the 2008 will still be a special wine at age 30. The aromas are naturally still quite primary, so some cellaring is advisable. The brutal August hailstorm took with it a full 40% of the production, but left behind a strikingly beautiful Brunello endowed with seemingly endless layers of fruit and fabulous overall balance. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2038. ||When all is said and done, Col d'Orcia might have produced not just one of the wines of the 2008 vintage, but possibly two. Proprietor Francesco Marone Cinzano and his team, led by long-time estate manager Edoardo Virano, have done a magnificent job with these wines, the Brunellos in particular. Like many estates in this part of the region, Col d'Orcia was hammered by the August 15 hailstorm. Yields were down by a whopping 40%. What the estate lost in production is compensated with the superb quality of the wines. During my visit, I also tasted a vertical of the estate-s Moscadello, a first for me. In the best vintages, the Moscadello can age two decades, although whether or not the wine improves with bottle age is a matter of personal preference. Mine is to drink the wine either upon release or after it is 20 years old. eRobertParker.com.June, 2013