1995 Charmes-Chambertin

As the vines in Dugat's Charmes-Chambertin parcel mature (at present only 17 years old), I predict this vineyard site will produce one of the most sought after red Burgundies. His style of winemaking seems perfectly suited to Charmes. Displaying deep, sweet spices, dark fruit and meat aromas, its oily, silky complex and elegant personality is crammed with tangy berries and milk chocolate. Thick and supple, it will be at its best between 2000-2008. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. The wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. Pinot Noir, a fragile varietal, reacts poorly to fining, filtration, and careless bottling techniques, I recommend caution when considering buying a red burgundy based on cask samples. I called it as I tasted it, and hope the bottled wine reflects the quality of the samples I was provided. In 1993 and 1994, both difficult vintages many top-flight growers were unable to harness, Dugat produced some of the Cote d'Or's best wines. 1995 is no different. Rich, concentrated and offering layers of perfectly ripened fruit, these offerings firmly ensconce Bernard Dugat in the top echelon of the world's best Pinot Noir producers. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 932-2745.

Excellent red-ruby color. Cassis, spice and licorice aromas, plus floral and menthol components. Thick and round on the attack, then very concentrated and sweet in the middle palate. This has a seamless texture and lovely roundness. Finishes very long, with fine tannins and a smoky note. Showing extremely well-in fact, this seems stronger in bottle than it was out of barrel a year ago.