2011 Bedrock Pagani Ranch Heirloom

(made from a field blend of roughly two thirds zinfandel and the rest alicante bouschet, petite sirah, lenoir and grand noir): Inky ruby. Floral and spice-accented aromas of cherry, blackberry and violet, plus a hint of cracked pepper. Chewy black and blue fruit flavors show impressive depth and are enlivened by juicy acidity and a spicy nuance. The bright, gently tannic finish features blackcurrant and cherry preserve flavors, with a late jolt of allspice adding an exotic flourish.

The 2011 Pagani Ranch Heritage Wine is huge. Black fruit, tar, smoke, licorice and asphalt burst from this deep, muscular, Zinfandel-based wine. Imposing and intense, the Pagani boasts stunning depth and richness for the year. This is a serious red that will require considerable patience. Seemingly endless layers of fruit open up over time, followed by suggestions of violets, cloves and mint that add complexity. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2031. Morgan Peterson continues to put out a bevy of superb, site-driven wines, many of them focused on the old-vine, heritage sites he and a small cadre of fellow producers have brought back from the brink of extinction. When I taste the Bedrock wines, I often get the impression they will age very well, despite their considerable near-term appeal. Tel. (707) 364-8763