2012 Riesling Steinertal Smaragd

With a more buoyant, metaphorically cooler personality than the corresponding Loibenberg and one even more strikingly transparent to interactive notes of stone, salt, piquant herbal essences, and seeds, Alzinger’s 2012 Riesling Smaragd Steinertal is one of those profound wines of its grape that nevertheless doesn’t lose sight of its duty to refresh. Fresh lime, pear and apple tinged with wintergreen deliver the crisp, cooling, juicy side of this wine, yet hints of Szechuan pepper and fruit pip lend bite and glow. In truth, it comes at you from so many different angles it’s enough to make your head spin. For density consistent with buoyancy, and richness allied to vibratory intensity, this nearly endlessly finishing and for sure endlessly fascinating Riesling will be hard to beat. You should plan on following it through at least 2022. “Really, when you compare the basic outlines of the growing season,” suggests the younger Leo Alzinger, “it wasn’t that different in outline from 2011. Alcohol levels are comparable, but the 2012s – though analytically not significantly higher in acidity – act livelier. In Loiben, we managed to get just enough rain when it was needed to keep the vines working, and temperatures were a bit cooler at harvest than in 2011.” He was not able to offer an explanation as to why, in contrast with so many others of this vintage, his Rieslings seemed – at least on the occasion of my tasting – to outclass his (to be sure, excellent) Gruner Veltliners; indeed, he pointed out that his Rieslings are, on the whole, planted in thinner soils that, in principle, make for greater vine stress. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300