2020 Barbaresco

Aged for 12 months in French tonneaux and barriques, 10% new oak, followed by 12 months in large Gamba and Stockinger casks of Slavonian oak. ‘In 2008 we began with the gradual exchange of the large oak casks that were already used by my grandfather.’ Now their oldest oak cask is 15 years old. This wine was bottled at the beginning of June and has just been released. Youthful, just mid ruby. Expressive, cool, sweetly perfumed red-fruit nose with a whiff of spicy new oak. Elegant, fresh raspberry fruit and with lively acidity and crunchy tannins that stick to the palate. Vibrant. (WS)

So many aromas of fresh rose petals as well as hibiscus tea. Medium-bodied with crunchy and flowery character with sliced strawberries and a bright finish. So appealing with lovely structure. Chewy at the end. Drinkable but better in three or four years.

A pale ruby, and blended from 14 vineyard sites, the 2020 Barbaresco was tasted as a barrel sample. Spicy and pure, it is full of red berries with Asian spice and white pepper. On the palate, it is medium-bodied, with elegance and refinement throughout, approachable and fine tannins, no harsh edges, and a long-lasting floral finish. This seem to be a vintage that will drink well early but have plenty of longevity as well. The Gaja estate was founded in 1859, although it was Angelo Gaja, the fourth-generation winemaker of this Barbaresco estate, who made the innovations that would help shape the region as it is today. The entire family shares responsibilities across their estates. Great attention is paid to their practice of sustainable and regenerative farming. I met with Giovanni Gaja for this tasting at the estate in Barbaresco and also made a visit to the nearby region of the Alta Langa, only 16 kilometers away from the original estate. The latest major development for the estate in Piedmont is a brand new winery exclusively dedicated to their still white wine production in Alta Langa, designed by the Italian architect Giovanni Bo, who the family have worked with since 1982. The vineyards of Gaia & Rey and Brassica will remain the same, but fermentation and production will move to this location. There is greater biodiversity in Alta Langa compared to Barolo and Barbaresco, with 60% of the land being undeveloped land and hazelnut farms, and only 40% vineyards, compared to Barbaresco, which has 80% of the land under vine. For this reason, as well as the higher elevations, this area is seeing an influx of attention across the region. In 2015, they purchased 30 hectares of land that had been planted to hazelnut trees, at an average elevation of 650 meters, which they have converted to vineyard and indigenous plants of the area. The winery, which I toured in March of 2023, will be completed in time to begin production for this year’s harvest. Cascina Langa, the historical name for the property, has soils that are rich in sand and tuff, which they believe will be well-suited for adding structure for the white varietals of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. They also planted several other experimental vines to learn what will work well in the region.