2006 Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Good deep, bright ruby. Primary aromas of cassis, licorice, bitter chocolate, brown spices and menthol. The palate offers a compelling combination of pliancy and underlying structure, giving this very rich, deep wine a harmoniousness from the outset. The wine's lovely sweetness is leavened by healthy acidity, and the finish is very long and classically dry, with terrific definition and lift. Really spreads out to saturate the palate. A great showing, but delay your gratification because there will be more fireworks down the road.

The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon contains 14% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Malbec. Deep crimson-colored, it displays a captivating bouquet of pain grille, tobacco, pencil lead, incense, black currant, and blackberry liqueur. Layered and opulent on the palate, it has tons of succulent black fruit, ripe tannin, impeccable balance, and an exceptionally lengthy finish. It will evolve for another 5-7 years and drink well through 2026. Gary Figgins and son, Chris, keep tweaking things in the vineyards and cellar as they move toward totally biodynamic farming. As usual, their wines are benchmarks against which others must be measured. Tel. (509) 525-1428; www.leonetticellar.com