2012 Aleanna El Gran Enemigo Gualtallary
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Tasting notes
The nose of the 2012 Gran Enemigo Gualtallary Single Vineyard almost made me fall from my chair. It is the expression of elegance and austerity coupled with strong minerality. It is mostly Cabernet Franc from a very chalky vineyard in Gualtallary at 1,430 meters altitude that fermented together with a small percentage of Malbec. In 2012 they fine tuned the élevage and fermentation, which was in rolling 500-liter barrels that were new in 2006 (so by then quite neutral), where the wine was kept for one more year and then transferred to 1,000-liter egg-shaped cement vats for one further year. This reminded me of my favorite Bordeaux, Lafleur, because of the elegance, the refinement of the tannins and length. It has citric, effervescent acidity that makes you salivate. Winemaker and Owner Alejandro Vigil has done a very strict selection of the soils in the field, and only kept the very center of the vineyard where the high density (12,000 plants per hectare) generates a lot of competition, because the plants from the borders have more space in the sides, which means in 2012 he could only fill 1,800 bottles. Awesome, and ultra fresh for a vintage like 2012. Bravo!
Critic scores
James Suckling
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
(from vines planted on limestone soil at a density of 12,000 to the hectare; the limestone here absorbs water and thus protects the vines against hydric stress while the vegetative growth provided by the high vine density creates shade that protects the clusters; the wine's 10% Malbec is co-fermented): Bright ruby-red. Pungent yet reticent aromas of blueberry, flowers, mint and smoky minerality. Wonderfully tactile, creamy and deep but with its chewy, sweet mid-palate energized by strong acidity and piquant notes of flowers, pepper and salty crushed-stone minerality. Finishes very smooth and extremely long, with suave, firm, thoroughly ripe tannins coated in fruit and saline extract (the actual level of dry extract here is a very high 36 grams per liter, according to Vigil). This extremely youthful, primary wine is still in diapers and will require patience. An extraordinary Argentine Cabernet Franc.
Incredible depth of aromas of black mushrooms, wet earth, and dark fruits. Full body, super silky tannins and a refined finish. It lasts for minutes on the palate. A thought-provoking wine that makes you think. Glorious. Drink now or hold for ages. May 2016, www.jamessuckling.com
About the producer
El Enemigo has quickly become one of Argentina’s top wine estates, specialising in high-altitude, single-vineyard Cabernet Franc cuvées and Bordeaux blends. They also produce a range of single-vineyard cuvées from the lesser-known variety Bonarda.