2020 Hatzidakis Winery Santorini Familia

Full bottle 1,430 g. 100% Assyrtiko. Vines in Pyrgos, mostly organically farmed. Fermented with ambient yeast in tank at 17–18 °C then spends five months in tank on lees. Bottled unfiltered. Vegan-friendly. TA 6.38 g/l, pH 2.99, RS 1.8 g/l. Very pale gold but darker than many an Assyrtiko. Unusual note of hay combined with a more intense salty, mineral character, with a hint of citrus fruit and herbs, almost a little cedary, though this wine is as much about Santorini as about the fruit. Stone-dust quality as it opens up on the day after opening. Tastes bone dry and crisply fresh yet impressively full in the mouth, and here it seems to be the depth of fruit that carries the wine. Distinctive, intense, long. With a salty, mouth-watering finish. (JH)