2003 Mantlerhof Riesling Zehetnerin

Aromas of lemon grass, sage, white peach and grapefruit. Juicy, melony and citric in the mouth. Yet this is also polished and suggestively creamy, with palpable extract. Long, ringing finish. This site at the foot of the Gedersdorf hills was hit by spring frost and its greatly reduced crop was thus already thoroughly ripe in mid-September. The resultant early picking displays a frisky acidity uncommon among 2003s, which helps to balance seven grams of very fruit-supportive residual sugar. 1 star.