2009 Château des Jacques Moulin-à-Vent

Sweet fruit and a touch of toasty oak on the nose but all in harmony. In this line up, this seems to have more oak sweetness than any but this is matched by lively fruit and fresh acidity. Moreish and juicy even though there’s quite a spicy grip at the moment. Very well made and satisfying but oak needs to settle a little for the fruit to come into its own. (JH)

Representing a blend from all five of their sites but favoring Champ de Cour and Carquelin, Chateau des Jacques’s 2009 Moulin-a-Vent smells of black and red raspberry, with heliotrope and lily overtones. With a striking and surprising sense of seamless oily-richness to its sweetly, exuberantly berry-brimmed palate impression, this reveals satisfying low-toned salted meat stock character that persists all the way through a lingering, lip-smacking finish. I suspect this already exceptional value will gain detail and finesse and be worth following for 4-6 years. Jadot technical director Jacques Lardiere and Chateau des Jacques director Guillaume de Castelnau – for more about whose distinctive aspirations and methodology (including maturation in largely new barrels) please consult my report in issue 184 – have been blessed with a vintage that goes a long way toward validating their approach. All that’s missing, I suspect (granted that I tasted the wines before bottling), is to see how they live up to Lardiere and de Castelnau’s ambitions for age worthiness. Given the quality offered here for the prices – which, frankly, I admire Jadot for having from the outset of this project set at levels that would make a statement, but which have since been rounded down – anyone with an interest in Beaujolais; in the history of French wine; or in red wine value generally, ought to help make history by cellaring a sampling of these amazing wines. Note that beginning with the 2008 vintage, the name of Chateau des Lumieres is being dropped from the Morgons grown and vinified there, which will instead be bottled under the name of Chateau des Jacques. Wine from a parcel of Chenas that Guillaume de Castelnau personally purchased will also be bottled under this label, after it passed muster with a reputedly skeptical Lardiere in blind tastings, though whether this wine will reach the U.S. (it’s in Canada) remains to be seen. The Jadot plan is to routinely bottle separately a portion of wine from each of Chateau des Jacques’s Moulin-a-Vent vineyards, but in some instances (depending on quality and yields of a given vintage) in non-commercial quantities. So for instance, while I have for the record reported on each of their 2008s, I have noted those that were bottled solely for the record. I tasted all of the Chateau des Jacques 2009s – which were harvested rapidly beginning September 18 and none of which exceeded 14% alcohol – as close approximations (closer where the lots were smaller) to their final assemblages, which did not take place until June (with bottling anticipated in September). Jadot vinifies a range of Beaujolais under their regular label – chief among these being a Beaujolais-Villages especially admirable in vintage 2009 – but with that one exception I once again did not have chance to taste that line of wines. Imported by Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490 9300

Perfumed and compact. A touch of wild herbs and absolutely beautiful, perfectly formed strawberry and blueberry and plum. Simply bursting with life and sap and deliciousness. A touch of green coffee bean. Tannins so graceful and limber and glossy that despite their strength one hardly realises they are there. Long, fascinating and fabulous. VGV (TC)