1993 Barbeito Madeira Sercial Frasqueira
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Tasting notes
A tribute to Sercial and Verdelho grape supplier, Manuel Eugénio Fernandes. TA 10.26 g/l, pH 3.05, RS 41 g/l. 640 bottles filled. Pale-mid amber. Fudgy, toasted walnut nose, with clearly more old-leather development than the 10 Year Old Barbeito just tasted, and its baked mandarin fruit in the background. Focus, linear style with apple acidity and lots of energy. A pick-me-up style of madeira, with a good-length, gently nutty finish. (TJ)
Critic scores
Tamlyn Currin, jancisrobinson.com
Tim Jackson MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
Since Barbeito was founded in 1946, Manuel Eugénio Fernandes (MEF) has supplied Sercial and Verdelho grapes to the company. He has always had a very close relationship with the family. This Sercial 1993 is the third wine of a series of bottlings that pay tribute to Mr Manuel Eugénio. From vineyards in Seixal on the north coast, more or less sea level. Part of the wines were aged there. In April 2019, 640 bottles were filled, all individually numbered. TA 10.26 g/l, pH 3.05, RS 41 g/l. Briny nose! Smells of rock pools. Salted preserved lemons, touch of caper, touch of iodine. A wine that makes my whole mouth feel alive: laser-dancing, high-vaulted and oceanic wild-wild-wired. So sappy. I love the bitterness, the fresh lemon and grapefruit peel dipped in a resinous syrup, the vibrating, fiercely racy, linear arrow of intention. I love the electric bolt that judders through the wine, not trying to please or flatter or seduce. This is Kipling's Cat that Walked by Himself . (TC)