2002 August Kessele Rudesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Kabinett Goldkapsel

Kabinett Gold Capsule is a designation I don't recall seeing before. In the present instance, it reflects Kesseler's belief that he has never bottled a better Kabinett. Ripe peach and pungent lemon and lemon zest aromas. Dense and satiny on the palate, with enormous sweetness (from 60 grams residual sugar) successfully balanced by extract and acidity. Still, there is something a bit exaggerated here and not just about the name. Youthfully strident, if not quite shrill. Long but at least for now single-mindedly peachy and lemony on the finish. Judgment reserved.