2017 Henschke Shiraz Hill of Grace

The 2017 Hill of Grace Shiraz offers notes of blueberry skin, crushed granite, essene of cassis, blackcurrant pastille, black tea, hung deli meat, white truffle and mushroom. It is inky, intense, black and dark, with seemingly endless length. The palate is initially sweet, with a real "bottom of the pot" jasmine tea bitterness to the tannins, however, this remains ajunct to the nose, which is decidedly savory. What is clear, is that the old vines shine through the conditions of the vintage; they shine through the hand of Stephen, and they show a density and solidity of texture that young vines achieve through so few hands. This wine was perhaps a touch meatier (not chunky, literally referring to meat/pastrami/deli meats) and more savory than expected. However, it remains a thundering display of line, length and complexity.

Full screwcapped bottle 1,265 g. The famous Hill of Grace west-facing vineyard 4 km north of Mount Edelstone that was planted with pre-phylloxera plants, the Grandfathers, brought from Europe in the mid 1800s, on very varied soils. Red-brown clay-loam grades to deep silty loam at 400 m over slate bedrock. Average rainfall is 520 mm a year. The original Ancestors vines are now about 160 years old. There are also centenarian vines and some that were planted about 35 years ago – all on their own roots, hence strict hygiene controls on those entering the vineyard. Each block is different apparently: House (the lightest soils with gravel in middle), Church (shallower red clay), PO Block 2 (shallower than 1), PO Block 1, Grandfathers (on the deepest soil with vines that take ages to ripen but offer exotic and spicy flavours), Windmill (less loess, more red clay and more vigorous – competes for latest with Grandfathers). An anti-f rost fan was installed in 2005. Picked 18 to 21 April. This wine is really all about the vineyard rather than the winery. Matured for 18 months in oak hogsheads (29% new), of which 17% were American rather than French oak. pH 3.52, TA 6.4 g/l. Sumptuous nose with an amazing array of savoury notes and with something distinctly mineral. Broad and absolutely bone dry – a contrast to Hill of Roses and Mount Edelstone. Very serious, almost gruff on the palate. Long with slightly more obvious alcohol than some. The tannins are almost hidden ('we spend a lot of time walking through the vineyard tasting for tannin maturity', according to Stephen Henschke). Amazingly long. But this is by far the most youthful of these new releases. (JR)