NV A. Margaine Demi Sec Traditionelle

Aromas of crisp orchard fruit, dried white flowers and gentle reduction introduce the Margaine NV Le Demi-Sec, a medium to full-bodied, off-dry wine with tangy acids, a fleshy core of fruit and a crisp finish. This bottle was disgorged in April 2018, and I suspect the real interest will emerge with more time on cork.

The NV Le Demi-Sec, usually one of the very best wines in its category is a bit restrained in this release. There is lovely creaminess and texture to the orchard fruit, citrus and floral notes. This edition is 89% Chardonnay and 11% Pinot Noir, based on 2013, with reserve wines from 2012, 2011 and 2006. Dosage is 33 grams per liter. Disgorged: March 2016.

Also recommended, but no tasting note given. I seem to break ranks with several of my distinguished colleagues when it comes to the wines of A. Margaine, several of which, on the occasion of my recent tasting, I could only modestly recommend. The basic “Cuvee le Brut” and Demi-Sec bottlings – both 90% Chardonnay – were relatively simply apple-y, with tart, piquant and herbaceous elements not entirely harmoniously integrated. Margaine’s 2011-based and Chardonnay-dominated Rose innovatively incorporated 11% bottled (unfiltered) still Pinot from vintages 2007 and 2009, but the overall effect included a slightly too pungent sweaty note and a faintly sour streak somewhat at odds with this wine’s candied expression of cherry. I certainly do look forward, though, to tasting the successors to the aforementioned bottlings. Margaine has been experimenting with used barriques that he acquires from Jadot, and their role in his three cuvees that I most enjoyed – all of them pure Chardonnay – seemed admirable and promising. Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300