2008 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino

The 2008 Brunello di Montalcino is one of the biggest, most powerful wines of the year. Scorched earth, tar, game, licorice and smoke all burst from a surprisingly explosive, full-bodied wine for the vintage. There is no shortage of depth in the glass. The 2008 becomes more refined over time, yet remains intense and virile. Cloves, menthol, tar and new leather flesh out on the varietal, imposing finish. Today, the 2008 is bit rustic and rough around the edges, but is a strong effort for the year, and one of the few 2008s that has the potential to surprise in the future.

The 2008 Brunello di Montalcino is one of the biggest, most powerful wines of the year. Scorched earth, tar, game, licorice and smoke all burst from a surprisingly explosive, full-bodied wine for the vintage. There is no shortage of depth in the glass. The 2008 becomes more refined over time, yet remains intense and virile. Cloves, menthol, tar and new leather flesh out on the varietal, imposing finish. Today, the 2008 is bit rustic and rough around the edges, but is a strong effort for the year, and one of the few 2008s that has the potential to surprise in the future. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2023. Andrea Cortonesi reflects the best of the artisan spirit in Montalcino. The Uccelliera wines are rich, layered and beautifully textured. Cortonesi vinifies his plots in three major subdivisions, corresponding to the altitude of the vineyards on the slope. Partial aging in French oak gives these Brunellos from the southern Castelnuovo dell’Abate district additional warmth and richness. Readers who want to check out the Uccelliera wines might want to start with the Rosso or the Rapace, which is sublime in 2010, a great vintage for Montalcino. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411; Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887

Mature-looking, concentrated ruby with orange-tinged rim. Fine, brooding and sweet and slow to emerge. Candied fruit and fruitcake. Concentrated and full on the palate, it needs this fruit load to deal with the big tannins. (WS)