2015 Wittmann Westhofener Kirschspiel Riesling Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
Crabapple, lime, cooling green herbs and a suffusion of chalk are accompanied by the sort of seed and pit piquancy, firmness and fullness that I am accustomed to encountering in Wittmann Grosse Gewächse. Kirchspiel here certainly lives up to its reputation as the Westhofen cru most concentratedly illustrative of limestone soil in the service of density and brightness. The finish here grips with borderline bitterness while delivering cheek-pinching, invigorating tartness and palate-cleansing cut. Quite a performance – but here’s hoping it will become a bit more ingratiating with some years in bottle.
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
Big oak casks. Wonderful fruit purity already jumping out of the glass. Crystalline and intense, mouth-watering and so persistent. So hard to move on. (JH)
Round and polished nose and then very marked acidity on the palate. Muscular. Not nearly ready. (JR)
Wittmann's 2015 Riesling GG Kirchspiel comes from the steepest vineyard of the family, which is facing east and always delivers spicier and coolish flavors. This wine opens with a lovely, pure, cool, fresh and smoky lemon and Waldmeister flavor over crushed limestones. Piquant, fresh and citrus-like on the palate, this is a densely woven, rich, intense and powerful Kirchspiel. It has chalk and flesh—intellectual and hedonistic components. The wine is very clear and fresh, combining its powerful and chalky nature with tension, freshness and finesse. The finish is long and very promising. This is a Riesling to be served with food, crustacean perhaps. I would not pour it before 2020 though.