2005 Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes

From sites just outside Brochon – representing 17 parcels from three hectares whose vines are an average age of 60 – Geantet’s 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes smells of lightly-cooked raspberry and black cherry with grilled meats. Compact and palpably extract-rich on the palate, it mingles fresh cherry and raspberry with fresh beef blood, carrying into a strong finish with suggestions of chalk dust. The tannins are very fine-grained, and one could expect this outstandingly concentrated if as yet only moderately-complex wine to require 3-5 years before being worth revisiting. Vincent Geantet as usual bottled well before year’s end, and his wines seemed to be having a particularly expressive, fruit-filled day when I tasted. Interestingly, much as he bottles all of his wines together, so, Geantet’s barrel regimen is the same regardless of appellation: one-third each of new, one-year and two-year wood. He prolonged the pre-fermentative maceration to eight days, which seems to have enhanced the brightness of fruit exhibited by these wines. I must say I did not come prepared for quite such an impressive collection as that which Geantet delivered. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722 9228

(a blend of 17 parcels) Bright ruby-red. Pungent, perfumed nose melds black and red raspberry, smoked meat, flint and minerals; I would describe this as a Chambolle style of Gevrey. Then fat, pliant and sweet, with a light touch and nice definition to the flavors of red and black fruits, smoke and minerals. Finishes with substantial broad tannins and very good length. Serious wine, more vibrant than the Feusselottes and structured to age.