2005 Château Gracia

This estate is a tiny micro-treasure in St.-Emilion. Owned by Michel Gracia and consisting of less than five acres of vines, it turned out a final blend in 2005 of 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, but only 5,000 bottles were produced. A wine pushing for perfection, notes of blueberry and blackberry dominate, but also underlying the fruit is a strong core of minerality and flowers. Full-bodied, rich, concentrated, and absolutely pure, this is a tour de force and a prodigious effort in this great, long-lived, slow-evolving vintage. Forget it or another 5-10 years and drink it over the following 40 or more.

Dark purplish crimson. Not too obviously sweet on the nose – quite fresh and energetic in fact. Only some rather too dry, grainy tannins on the finish spoil it. Shame! But as I liked it so much more when tasting it blind en primeur I will give it the benefit of the doubt. (JR)