2003 Cakebread Chardonnay Napa Valley

80% barrel fermented, 8 months in oak, 6% MLF. Buttered popcorn, a hint of orange peel suggests some slightly oxidative decay, but it isn’t too destructive – the tropical fruit is still showing well. Thick and syrupy on the palate – the antithesis of voguish, lean Chardonnay. Impressive flavour, but you’d need to love the high extract, weighty style to truly love this. (RH)