2005 Ar.Pe.Pe. Valtellina Superiore Sassella Ultimi Raggi Riserva

A sfursat made in the traditional way from the highest vines, at 600m. Grapes are dried on the vine and were not picked until 25 Nov (back labels are admirably informative). Two-week maceration and three-year elevage. Very bright, healthy glowing red. Intense and actually a bit savagely drying on the finish. A bit like a reduction of the Sassella Riserva 2006 and less fun to drink. Perhaps it is just meant to be sipped gingerly? Very much an insider's wine but I find myself looking for a bit more juice. Perhaps this is an instance of pearls before this ignorant swine? (JR)