2017 Booker Oublie

The 2017 Oublié 22 was aged longer in barrel (22 months) than its counterpart. Medium to deep ruby in the glass, it has very pretty scents of dried rose petal, blood orange, prosciutto and charcuterie with rhubarb and oodles of red berry jam at the core—raspberries, red cherries and cranberries—plus an undercurrent of amaro and earth. Medium to full-bodied, the silky-textured palate is layered with fruits, spices, amaro and earth, wrapped together with firm but grainy tannins and fantastic juicy freshness, finishing long and layered. This needs time!

Another brilliant wine is the 2017 Oublie 22, which I'd happily put in a blind lineup with the top Rhône-like blends coming out of California today. Based on 56% Grenache and 22% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre, its semi-opaque purple color is followed by a sensational bouquet of black raspberries, caramelized blood orange, bouquet garni, ground pepper, violets, and assorted spices. It's a big, rich, powerful wine, yet the Grenache component dominates and it's light on its feet, with that rare mix of power and weightlessness that this variety can deliver when done brilliantly. I followed this bottle for three days and it only improved with air, so while I have no hesitation recommending opening bottles today, it's also going to keep easily for a decade or more.