2006 Peter Michael Les Pavots

(77% cabernet sauvignon, 13% cabernet franc, 8% merlot and 2% petit verdot) Glass-staining ruby. Powerful aromas of red- and blackcurrant, with deeper cherry compote, tobacco and candied licorice emerging with air. Very rich but surprisingly graceful, offering sweet red and dark berry flavors, velvety texture and a suave floral pastille quality. Tightens up on the finish, which repeats the redcurrant and licorice notes and simply refuses to let up. This wine's depth and linear character are something else. There is more cabernet sauvignon in this Pavots than in any previous bottling, according to Nick's brother Luc, who still consults here.

The 2006 Les Pavots (a 2,730-case blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Merlot and Petit Verdot) exhibits big notes of chocolate fudge intermixed with dark berry fruit, forest floor, underbrush, and some smoky oak. The wine is full-bodied, with remarkable intensity, low acidity, and a fleshy, opulent mouthfeel. This wine should drink well for 15-20+ years. This winery continues to go from strength to strength despite a succession of winemakers over the last decade. Their consistency seems to come from their access to top vineyards and the carte blanche given by the proprietor to the talented winemakers who have come through, such as Mark Aubert, more recently Luc Morlet, and now his brother, Nicolas Morlet. They seem to do whatever is necessary (keeping yields low, having the best barrels, sorters, and vats) to produce the wines of extraordinary quality that have made Peter Michael a true world-class producer of unbelievable Chardonnays as well as Pinot Noirs and a Bordeaux-blend proprietary red wine. Nearly every Chardonnay here is of grand cru quality, and all are based on specific vineyard sites sprinkled in Knight’s Valley and the Sonoma appellation. Currently, there are six Chardonnays, two cuvees of Pinot Noir (and this is before their Sonoma Coast plantings of Pinot Noir come into production), two Bordeaux blends, and of course, their brilliant Sauvignon Blanc. Readers will find that the production in 2006 was slightly higher almost across the board for all the cuvees than the 2007, which was a year of moderate yields and approximately 20% less in quantity. The Point Rouge is always a selection of the best barrels from all the different lots, and bottled as an homage to Helen Turley, who first worked here and suggested to the owner in the late 1980s that the wine would be better unfiltered, which led to some experiments and a dramatic improvement in quality when the wine was finally bottled naturally. Sir Peter Michael has invested heavily on the Sonoma Coast, but those vineyards won’t come into production until next year. It is often difficult for a winery that achieves such brilliance with Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Noir to also do well with Bordeaux varietals, but Les Pavots has been a brilliant success for 15+ years. Tel. (707) 942-3200; Fax (707) 942-0209

The 2006 Les Pavots (a 2,730-case blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Merlot and Petit Verdot) exhibits big notes of chocolate fudge intermixed with dark berry fruit, forest floor, underbrush, and some smoky oak. The wine is full-bodied, with remarkable intensity, low acidity, and a fleshy, opulent mouthfeel. This wine should drink well for 15-20+ years. Dec 2008, www.robertparker.com