2003 E. Guigal Ermitage Ex Voto

Another perfect wine is the 2003 Hermitage Ex Voto and it's the most over-the-top, decadent and hedonistic Ex Voto ever produced. From Les Bessards, l'Hermite, Greffieux and les Murets and aged 4 years in 100% new French oak, it offers off-the-charts concentration and texture as well as layers of creme de cassis, smoke meats, licorice, spice-box and spring flowers. Voluptuous, sweetly fruited and yet, like all great wines, still lively, fresh and graceful. It will have half a century or more of life.

Opaque dark ruby. Incredibly rich, deep and pungent on the nose, offering an outsized bouquet of kirsch, blackberry, cassis and musky cured tobacco. I commented that this smelled like a great port and Guigal, who clearly adores this wine, said "Well, 1945 Taylor is a wine I'd walk miles for." Powerful, deeply concentrated and sweet, with explosive cherry, plum and dark berry flavors, notes of bitter chocolate and exotic spices, and molten tannins. I'm not sure how you'd serve this monster (15.5% alcohol) but it sure is fun to drink.

Two terroirs: Murets which is heavy, clay, part of hillside which specialises in white wine. JL Grippat planted this. 45- and 90-year-old vines. Plus Ermite. Traditional vinification: all new oak. 30 months in new oak. Almost all Marsanne plus 3% Roussanne. First vintage was 2001, second vintage was in 2003 . Very floral and winning. Good dry undertow. Quite soft and very perfumed. Low acid. Almost bitter, oily finish. Quite hot end. Could be drunk much later! (JR)