2007 Leeuwin Estate Chardonnay Art Series

Vines planted in the 1970s. Barrel fermented and 100% new oak. Smoky nose. Tingly and with lots built in there for the future. Lots bubbling under the surface. Real minerality and wildlife in the wine! The finish is not the purest but the mid palate is most impressive. Long. (JR)

Around 3000 cases of the flagship Art Series Chardonnay are produced with Leeuwin Estate blocks 20, 22, 96 and 97 contributing to the blend (all Gin-Gin / Mendoza clone). It is all barrel fermented in 100% new French oak where it usually remains for around 12 months. The 2007 Art Series Chardonnay was still youthfully mute revealing a moderate intensity of peaches, oatmeal, chalk, lemon zest, ginger, anise and jasmine with the oak barely perceptible in the background. Rich, ripe, full bodied yet wonderfully structured with crisp acidity and a real minerality, this beauty has a very long finish with the oak integration already nearly seamless. Consider drinking it from 2013 to 2020+. “Back in the 1970s Margaret River was dying – the wine business established it,” Leeuwin Estate’s Denis Horgan told me as we gazed over his impressive winery, restaurant and concert hall operation. “This area used to have one of the highest unemployment rates in the country previously.” Have a brief drive around Margaret River and its environs and you’ll soon know that the region’s lifeblood these days is wine and its heart is Horgan’s Leeuwin Estate, established in 1975. Never one to do things by half, Horgan’s continually high standards at Leeuwin maintains it as one of the region’s benchmarks. Since Bob Cartwrights’s retirement as Chief Winemaker, Paul Atwood, who is a bit of an institution himself having already made wine there for more than 13 years, has adeptly filled his shoes. Prelude Chardonnay is made just like the Art Series but is blended from a selection of cuvees for earlier drinking. It receives no indigenous ferments and no oxidative handling. The key difference is that there is more forward fruit in Prelude than the Art Series, which is of course designed to age. About 2/3 of the total Chardonnay blocks are fermented in 100% new oak, so that equates to around 40% new oak on the Prelude and it usually spends about 1 year in barrel. The Chardonnays don’t normally go through malo-lactic but for example Paul told me they did use 25% in 2006 because it was a cool vintage. The final difference is that Prelude uses some purchased fruit whereas Art Series is always 100% estate grown. Importer: Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; www.oldbridgecellars.com

Light, hazy yellow. Expressive, high-pitched aromas of lemon zest, orange, dried fig and talc, plus a hint of white pepper; picks up notes of allspice and mace with air. Taut and sharply focused, offering fresh citrus flavors and deeper notes of bitter apple skin and marzipan. A dusty mineral quality carries through the long, chewy, faintly sweet finish. Offers an impressive interplay of liveliness and depth.