1995 Dominus

Christian Moueix and his talented winemaking team continue to rewrite the definition of a Napa Valley reference point wine. The 1995 Dominus (6,000 cases produced from a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 6% Petit Verdot, and 4% Merlot) is a ripe, plummy, supple, expansively-flavored wine with copious quantities of black currant fruit. Full-bodied and low in acidity, it possesses exceptional concentration and purity. Qualitatively, it is built along the lines of the 1992 and 1990. While it is not as powerful or intense as the 1996 or 1994, the 1995 is a large-scaled, rich, concentrated wine that should provide splendid drinking for two decades. On what I suppose is a distressing note, I have noticed huge demand for Dominus in recent auction activity. At a Sotheby's auction on October 25, Dominus fetched prices of $23,150 for one imperial of 1991, and $10,450 for two 1991 double magnums. Although none of this is the fault of anybody at Dominus (blame Christian Moueix and his team for producing profound wine) if this trend continues, I wonder how any true amateurs will be able to afford the wine. Tel. (707) 944-8954; Fax (707) 944-0547

Full deep red. Sexy, perfumed aromas of black and red raspberry, currant, plum, graphite and spicy oak. Supple entry, then bright and sharply delineated thanks to firm acids. Fruit-driven flavors of currant, cherry and leather. Expands nicely on the aftertaste. Tannins are suaver than those of the '96. Jul 1999, www.vinous.com

This seemed much more obviously Cabernet and a bit drier and less hedonistic than the (riper) 1994 served (blind) alongside it. There was freshness on the finish after some obviously sweet fruit in the middle and some tannins still to be resolved. All in all this seems to be ageing at much the same rate as a good red bordeaux 1995. Nov 2013, www.jancisrobinson.com, Drink: 2005-2020