2006 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste

Excellent balance, finesse and precision on the nose, with graphite, cloves, plums and a touch of leather. Light on the palate, but it shows poise, finesse and complexity. Long and still firm and fine-grained. 78% cabernet sauvignon and 22% merlot. Drink now or in the next several years. From a vertical tasting at the winery.

The 2006 Grand-Puy-Lacoste is an impressive wine for the vintage. Though this example was poured blind at the property, I have encountered better bottles, and this shows a little volatility on the nose. The palate has plenty of concentration, more like a 2005 in style with plush blackberry and blueberry fruit. Good grip and assertive on the finish, this is a delicious Pauillac, although I leave a question mark against my score simply because I know it can show better. Tasted at the château.

We are really getting in to the stride at this point of what you get with an older Grand Puy Lacoste - it is so juicy, so restrained, beautifully balanced. This is a vintage which is pretty surly in many cases but here it feels effortless, brushed with pencil lead and eucalpytus, still young with plenty to give. Entering that window when you could drink it tomorrow or in 15 years and you would be getting the same experience - the early austerity is just beginning to disappear, and behind you have essence of Pauillac. Serve a little cool to allow the floral character to unfold as it warms up. Harvest September 21 to October 4.