1997 Chablis Les Clos

Drunk from magnum, Vincent Dauvissat's 1997 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos put on a stunning showing, and clearly ranks as one of the true sleeper vintages for this great estate. Bright and lively in hue, the wine unfurls in the glass with a classic bouquet of citrus oil, oyster shells, dried orange peal, oatmeal and gentle leesiness that's still youthful, with little of the mushroomy, honeyed qualities that typically characterize mature Chablis. On the palate, it's full-bodied, broad and muscular, with a deep, layered mid-palate, ripe but racy acids and plenty of chewy extract, concluding with a long, beautifully defined finish. While the 1997 is not as searingly incisive as the more famous 1996, it is less of a high-wire act and may prove the better balanced wine in the long term. While this magnum in the town of Chablis was still youthful, I suspect 750-milliliter bottles in export markets are fully mature, and there's no reason not to open bottles.