2019 Gruner Silvaner Trocken
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Tasting notes
From one parcel in Westhofener Steingrube and another in Dalsheim. Vines 40–60 years old. Fermented in big oak and tank. Very small crop this year. Not much more than in the GG sites: 40 hl/ha compared with 80 hl/ha in normal years. Berries remained small. Klaus Peter Keller’s father was the one who decided to call this Grüner Silvaner (a synonym for Silvaner) because ‘Grüner Silvaner has this light, elegant touch in the name’. Cask sample. Smoky and spicy aroma. On the palate, taut, spicy, bone dry, mouth-watering. Fine grained, like fresh pears, with some pear fruit on the finish. Perfect for white asparagus, apparently. Lovely gentle grip on the palate. Light on its feet but surprisingly persistent. (JH)
Critic scores
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.