2006 Hermitage

Inky purple. Fresh red and dark berry aromas are underscored by zesty minerals, olive and violet. Showing plenty of complexity today, with sweet raspberry and cassis flavors lifted by a late note of floral pastille. Fine tannins frame the long, juicy finish. This is already pretty easy to drink.

The dense ruby/purple-colored 2006 Hermitage smells of pen ink, creme de cassis, earth, and truffles. The wine has medium to full body, with rich, pure fruit, excellent density, and good acidity in the finish. Overall, it is a very elegant style of wine. This high-quality negociant operation, started by Burgundian Dominique Laurent and his southern sidekick, the charismatic Michel Tardieu, continues to turn out high-class wines from purchased wine. Front man Michel Tardieu seems to know some of the finest growers in the Rhone, and he is willing to pay top dollar in order to get the stuff he wants. Importers: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808 and Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0029

Opaque purple. Intensely perfumed bouquet of ripe blackberry and cassis, with complicating licorice and floral qualities. Lush and impressively sweet, with pliant dark berry flavors, velvety tannins and excellent juicy persistence. I suspect that this will drink well young.