2018 Chardonnay “Kokoro”
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Lastly, the 2018 Chardonnay Kokoro comes from a blend of the Hyde, Pisoni, and Talley Rincon vineyards and was brought up all in new French oak. This gold-hued Chardonnay (there is actually a touch of green in its color) boasts sensational notes of ripe white peach, caramelized citrus, salty minerality, and white flowers. With subtle background oak, full-bodied richness, and a great finish that goes on for nearly a minute, it's another tour de force from Lato to enjoy over the coming 7-8 years or so. A great California success story, Polish immigrant Paul Lato started as a cellar hand in a Santa Maria co-op/custom crush and has worked his way up to being one of the leading producers of artisanal, world class wines in California today. Lato fashions a bevy of wines (I would normally say too many, yet given the quality he’s able to achieve, the more the merrier) including Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah. These aren’t lightweight wines, yet they never lose their sense of balance and elegance. I always describe the wines as having a slightly Old World style, but with one foot planted firmly in California. As I hope the reviews show, his 2018s are incredible wines across the board.
Critic scores
Jeb Dunnuck