2011 Le Pergole Torte Riserva

Gracious and racy, the 2011 Le Pergole Torte is superb. A younger version of the 2007, the 2011 is all about spherical texture and pure voluptuousness. Although 2011 was a warm vintage, the Pergole Torte still needs a few years in bottle for the tannins to soften fully. Dark red cherry, tobacco, plum, spices meld into the dense, plush finish. A late September harvest had not been seen at Montevertine sine 2003. This is the last vintage made by Giulio Gambelli.

A vivid, beautiful wine, the 2011 Pergole Torte is superb. Warm, early-maturing harvests often attenuate the differences between sites, but not here. The old vines weathered the heat better, resulting in a wine that is very much in line with the past, but with more body, amplitude and resonance. Rose petals, bright red stone fruits and mint are some of the many notes that grace the super-expressive finish. The 2011 spent one year in French oak barrels and a second year in cask.

The 2011 Le Pergole Torte was born in a hot vintage, borderline too hot. On the one hand, you could deduce that the wine's performance is less nuanced and profound as a result. You might also want to consider a shorter drinking window. On the other hand, however, this warm-vintage expression of Sangiovese, from the cooler Radda in Chianti subzone, possesses gorgeous intensity and a super attractive, fruit-driven flavor profile. You get so much more exuberance and texture here. The bouquet offers dark fruit aromas backed by scorched earth, cured tobacco and a touch of savory black truffle. It's simply delicious right now. Mar 2018, www.robertparker.com