2016 Barolo Riserva

Dark red/magenta in color, the 2016 Barolo Riserva is remarkable, offering loads of kirsch, polished leather, balsamic, dark chocolate, and crushed violets. The list goes on and on as it opens and begins to show more mineral aromas of graphite and truffle. Medium to full-bodied, it’s an exquisite red, with ripe, polished tannins, a seamless structure, and a long finish. It retains wonderful purity and ripeness and leaves a haunting sensation as it tapers ever so slowly. This stunning wine from the Scavino family is built for the long haul. Drink 2026-2056. Helmed by fourth generation winemaker Elisa Scavino, the estate owns and manages 30 hectares spanning eight of the 11 communes of the Barolo region and is based in Castiglione Falletto. Sadly, Elisa’s father Enrico Scavino passed away earlier this year at the age of 82. He was an active part of his family’s winery until his passing. Since 2007, they have implemented the use of a netted, submerged cap cylindrical system developed by Enrico that achieves a delicate extraction during fermentation. They have moved to slower, longer fermentation periods and, as of 2018, are solely utilizing large casks. In the vineyard, they pay great attention to the soils' compression, creating a sustainable ecosystem rich in oxygen and microorganisms and a sustainable approach. Their most recent acquisitions include those of Prapo and Ravera in 2015. Having lost their contract for Cannubi, they are no longer producing what was known as the Barolo Carobric, of which the Cannubi fruit was a major component. I continue to be impressed with the direction these wines have been taking toward a more expressive and pure sense of place, with wonderful diversity across the portfolio. I had the chance to taste the wines for this report twice.