1990 Ch. Beauséjour
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Tasting notes
The 1990 Beauséjour Héritiers Duffau-Lagarrosse is a wine made by one man, Robert Parker, who anointed it with a perfect score. I have only tasted it once, almost 25 years ago, and bottles are now very elusive. Here it has a big, bold bouquet that teeters on the brink of over-ripeness and, frankly, it is completely shown up by the far more complex and nuanced '90 Cheval Blanc. There is something static about the aromatics. The palate is framed by thick, saturated tannins, dense but a little ponderous. There is a sexiness about this Saint-Emilion, but it feels a bit smudged on the finish. Enjoyable in a slightly vulgar way, I can understand why some will fall for its hedonistic virtues, just not me.
Critic scores
Wine Spectator
Robert Parker
More reviews and scores
I've been lucky enough to have the 1990 Château Beauséjour (Duffau-Lagarrosse) multiple times recently, and it's never fails to absolutely stop me in my tracks. Still youthfully ruby-hued, with a massive array of ripe red and black fruits, truffly earth, graphite, saddle leather, and an incredible sense of minerality, this singular Saint-Emilion hits the palate with full-bodied richness and depth while staying laser-like focused and sensationally elegant. I don't know what yields were at this time, but the level of concentration, depth, and richness paired with it a chiseled, focused mouthfeel (no doubt from the limestone in this vineyard) is something to behold. It's fully mature today, and I don't see any upside, so don't make the mistake of waiting too long. This is one of the legendary wines of Saint-Emilion that I truly wish every reader could taste!
Very dark crimson. Sweet, gamey and rich on the nose with far more concentration than many 1990s yet with sufficient refreshment too. This tasted a bit like a souped-up Graves. Racy. Perhaps this wine communicates winemaking a little bit more than terroir but it's a great, compact, dense wine with lift and more than a hint of soy sauce. Umami, anyone? (JR)
About the producer
Ch. Beauséjour (previously known as Ch. Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse) is one of the finest Premier Grand Cru Classé estates in Saint-Emilion. Situated between Ch. Canon and Ch. Angélus on the limestone plateau, it is one of the best positioned in the appellation.