1984 Verdelho

Tasted from a mini sample bottle and from bottle. RS 71 g/l. On the tip of the tongue, it is sweeter than the 1994. On the back of the palate, it is drier and sharper and leaner. But it has the same notes of thyme and lemon. Some lemongrass here, and lots and lots of oranges, bitter, sweet. Coffee beans. There's something terse and nervous about the acidity in this wine, high and high-wired, as if it cannot settle. Spitefully salty, but you'll come back for more. Iodine. A restless spirit, a winter wind. (TC)