2008 Charmes Chambertin

Plum, cherry, red licorice, smoked meat, and beef marrow dominate the Camille Giroud 2008 Charmes-Chambertin, with a tart sense of rhubarb entering on the palate, offset by a deep richness of cocoa powder and persistent seamlessly ripe sweet cherry and plum. This combines richness, carnal depth, and vintage-typical invigoration for an impressive performance that should play well for at least ten years. David Croix’s 2008 Camille Giroud collection was picked late; slow to evolve; and for the most part had not been bottled when I tasted in April. Although I missed out on a couple of wines in this year’s collection, the line-up from Camille Giroud was also smaller than in previous years. (I have not tasted the 2007s here. For details about the recent revival of Camille Giroud and about David Croix’s approach, readers are referred to reports in issues 160 and 170 respectively; and for reports on Croix’s own domaine, see under Domaine des Croix.) A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers); fax 011-333-80-24-29-70

(tasted from tank) Bright medium red. Open-knit, highly aromatic nose offers scents of blackberry, flowers and iron. Silky-sweet and pliant, with a liqueur-like quality to its cherry, raspberry and floral flavors. Finishes sweet and persistent. This one finished its malolactic fermentation last May and is more presentable today than most of the other 2008s at this address. Croix planned to bottle it in January.

Better than the Dublère though there is still quite a sweetness to the red-fruit flavour. Fluid, dry and lingering but not particularly exciting. (JH)